sewing singer attachments

Singer featherweight Accessory Instructions: The Zipper Foot

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Quilter–– Gatherer –– Foot Hemmer –– Adjustable Hemmer –– Under Braider –– Ruffler –– Edge Stitcher –– Gathering Foot –– Tuck Marker –– 222 Embroidery/Darner Hoop –– 221 Darning/Embroidery –– Multi-slotted Binder ––Bias Gauge –– Cording Foot –– Seam Guide –– Automatic Zig-Zagger 161157 –– Automatic Zig-Zagger 160990 –– Blind Stitcher –– Buttonholer
THE ZIPPER FOOT (Part No. 16127)
The narrow Zipper Foot makes it easy to place stitching close to a raised edge — either a zipper or cording. Also, the hinge in the foot makes it ride easily over pins, heavy layers of fabric, or cross seams. Use the Zipper foot for: Zipper Insertions, Tabular Cording, Corded Seams, Slipcover Welting
To Attach the Zipper Foot
1. Loosen the large screw at the left of the presser bar and remove presser foot (You do not need to remove the screw).
2. Hook the prongs of the Zipper Foot around the presser bar from the back, and tighten the presser-bar screw.
3. If the raised edge (zipper or cording) is to the right of the needle, adjust the Zipper Foot by loosening the thumb screw at the back of the foot and sliding foot to the left of the needle. If the raised edge is to the left, slide foot to right.
4. With presser foot down, check its position by lowering needle into side notch, making sure it just clears the foot.
5. Tighten thumb screw to lock foot into position.
When raised edge is placed to right — adjust foot to left of needle.
When raised edge is placed to left — adjust foot to right of needle.
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The Adjustable Hemmer
With its slide close, the attachment will make hems

up to one inch wide.Loosen the screw at the front and move the slide until the pointer is against the desired width, then tighten the screw. Insert the edge of the material between the slide and

the number gauge, and draw it backward and forward until the hem is formed, stopping with its end under the needle. Lower the presser bar and sew, taking care in guiding the work to keep the hemmer full.

To make a hem more than one inch wide, loosen the screw, draw the slide to the right as far as it will go, and turn it towards you. Fold and crease down a hem of the desired width, pass the fold

under the extension at the right of the hemmer, then insert the edge of the material into the folder, and proceed to sew.
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Darning
Remove the presser foot and fit Feed Cover Plate No. 108002 over the feed dog by inserting the single prong into the long slot at
the front of the throat plate, .

pressing lightly on the cover plate until the two prongs engage in the slots at the rear of the throat plate. Attach Spring Darning Foot No. 121094, but do not tighten the thumb screw. Stretch tightly the article to be repaired in an embroidery hoop and place below the needle by tilting the edge of the hoop. Then lower the presser bar by means of its lifter, and adjust the height of the darning foot to allow just sufficient space for the free movement of the work. After adjustment, tighten the thumb screw securely. The hoop should be moved backward and forward by the hands and the hole or damaged part completely covered

with stitching in one direction before turning the work at a right angle and stitching across to complete the darn. When the machine is to be used again for plain stitching, replace the presser foot and remove the feed cover plate by inserting the blade of the small screw driver in the notch and twisting to the right, as shown in Fig. 52

Embroidery
For lace embroidery, i.e. open work, remove the presser foot and attach Feed Cover Plate 108002 and Spring Foot 121094.
For surface embroidery, where a clear view of the stitching is required, neither foot should be used.
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The Bias Gauge will be found very useful (especially in the case of soft materials) when cutting bias strips from 7/16 inch to
1 3/8 inches in width.
This may be done by placing the bias gauge upon the point of the scissors and setting the blued indicator to the width desired.
The line F is the point at which to set the blued indicator for facings, the line B for binding, and the line C for cording or piping. Insert the material in the gauge with the edge against the blued indicator, and hold as shown. Bias binding for use with the Binder Attachment should be cut 15/16 inch wide, and to do this the indicator should be set midway between the lines F and B.
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Singer Featherweight Embroidery/Darning Hoop
Thread or yarn comparable to that used into the material to be darned is recommended. Fine soft thread used with a fine needle will produce a soft, comfortable darn that will outwear the rest of the material. Draw up bobbin thread through needle hole in throat plate, leaving the end of thread M as shown in Fig. 69. Press down lever K to its lowest position by pulling its spring knob to release the lever from the keyway, which will drop the feed below the throat plate.
Set stitch regulator R to its neutral position at centre of slot as in Fig. 69
Fit spring darning and embroidery foot No. 171071 in place of the presser foot, taking care that extension C slips into slot D, lug P is above needle clamp Q as shown in Fig. 68, and that the needle passes through centre of hole in foot.
Large flat work can be more conveniently darned by using wooden embroidery hoops in which is stretched the article to be repaired. Smaller holes may be darned by the use of the special darning and embroidery hoop No. 171074.

These hoops are not supplied with the machine, but can be purchased separately

To fit hoop No. 171074 to the machine, remove solid ring E from split ring L and, while holding split ring and arm extension F at right angle to machine bed, slip hook G into rectangular hole H in throat plate. Raise foot lifter J and slide split ring L under the foot as shown in Fig. 69. Place material to be darned over split ring L and under the foot, so that the hole to be repaired is centred in the hoop. Raise foot lifter J and place solid ring E under the foot and over

the material, then press solid ring firmly into place in split ring.
When darning tubular work,

, loosen the thumb screw S and remove cloth plate by pulling it to the left.

Slide material to be darned over free end of arm N, under darning and embroidery foot and over split ring L.

Trim the hole to be darned so that a ragged edge will not be left when the darn is finished.

Run the machine slowly and move the hoop steadily with both hands in time with the needle, either back and forth or to the right and left.
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After two or three stitches are made, cut off the loose ends of thread so that they will not be stitched into the darn.

It is advisable to make two or three rings of stitches around any large hole and then to start stitching from one side across to the other and gradually cover the hole with threads running in one direction.

When the hole is so covered, move the hoop in the other direction to complete the darn with a few lines of cross stitches.

After darning replace the presser foot for ordinary sewing, raise lever K to its highest position, and set stitch regulator to the required number of stitches.
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Singer Featherweight Cording Foot
Presser feet for stitching on edge and inserting cord are made in two styles, 125035 for stitching on the left side of the needle, and 121877 adjustable for stitching on either the right or left side.
Both feet produce identical work, and the different styles meet the individual requirement of the operator.
For Edge Cording — fold the edge of the fabric over the cord and stitch close to the cord, guiding the work by hand.
For Corded Seams — fold the bias strip around the cord and insert the covered cord between the two pieces of fabric, with all raw edges together and the right sides of the fabric together. Then stitch close to the cord.
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Singer Featherweight Gathering Foot
Material placed under the gatherer and stitched in the usual way will be slightly gathered. Any fabric that drapes well is especially suited for shirring with the

gatherer, generally with a long stitch and tight tension. To increase the fullnes of the gathers, lengthen the stitch. To decrease the fullness, shorten the stitch. With the gatherer, it is possible to shirr in narrow rows as shown in Fig. 33. The material may be guided as easily as when sewing with the presser foot. Fine materials, such as batiste, silk or net, may be very attractivelt shirred. Where only a slight fullnes is required, as at the top of a sleeve or around the neck, the gatherer will be found very convenient.

A very pleasing effect may be gained by using thread or embroidery silk of contrasting colour on the bobbin. Fig. 35 shows a white organdie collar and cuff set with red and green smocking made with the gatherer, using fine crochet cotton or tatting thread on top and white cotton on the bobbin.
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Singer Featherweight Quilter GuideThe quilter guide can be used at either the right or left of the needle, and the distance of the guide from the needle determines the width between the rows of stitching.
Slide the wire into its holder on the foot, and set it to the width desired; then lower the foot on to the material.
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To Quilt — For the first row of stitching, let the quilter guide follow the edge of the material, a straight crease, or a line, as preferred. Succeeding rows are made straight and at a uniform distance by keeping the previous row steadily under the guide, as shown.
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Singer Featherweight Zipper Foot
THE ZIPPER FOOT (Part No. 16127)
The narrow Zipper Foot makes it easy to place stitching close to a raised edge — either a zipper or cording. Also, the hinge in the foot makes it ride easily over pins, heavy layers of fabric, or cross seams. Use the Zipper foot for: Zipper Insertions, Tabular Cording, Corded Seams, Slipcover Welting
To Attach the Zipper Foot
1. Loosen the large screw at the left of the presser bar and remove presser foot (You do not need to remove the screw).
2. Hook the prongs of the Zipper Foot around the presser bar from the back, and tighten the presser-bar screw.
3. If the raised edge (zipper or cording) is to the right of the needle, adjust the Zipper Foot by loosening the thumb screw at the back of the foot and sliding foot to the left of the needle. If the raised edge is to the left, slide foot to right.
4. With presser foot down, check its position by lowering needle into side notch, making sure it just clears the foot.
5. Tighten thumb screw to lock foot into position.
When raised edge is placed to right — adjust foot to left of needle.
When raised edge is placed to left — adjust foot to right of needle.

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Singer Featherweight Tuck Marker
Fit the tuckmarker, as shown in Fig. 56. The attachment has two figured scales, that in front (the space scale) in eighths and the central clip (the tuck scale) in sixteenths of an inch.

The tuck scale determines the width of the tuck. For instance, if this is required to be 1/4 inch, loosen the back thumb screw and slide the guide until its straight edge is over the figure 2, then tighten the screw. By loosening the front thumb screw, the space scale may be moved in either direction to give the desired width between the lines of stitching. For instance, if 1/4 inch tucks are wanted with 1/4 inch clear space between each, the space scale should show the figure 3 exactly in line with the needle hole; or if no space is required, then the figure 2. When the required width is obtained tighten the thumb screw.

To operate the tuckmarker is exceedingly simple. Fold the material by hand and place it in the attachment by passing the folded edge over the upright marking point below the left hand end of the space scale, then between the tuck guide and below the foot.
The lever on the top must also be down in position, as in Fig. 56, and the edge of the fold up against the small guide. Lower the presser bar lifter and sew as usual, being careful to keep the folded edge against the guide. When the first tuck is completed the material will be found creased for the second tuck. Fold the material at the crease and, with its plain side uppermost, proceed as before. When making the last tuck, raise the lever so that it does not press on the space scale. In this position no crease for a succeeding tuck is made in the material.
Use the table below to assist you in setting the Tucker
Guide Space Scale
1/8″ tucks with no space 1 1
1/8″ tucks with 1/8″ space 1 1 1/2
1/4″ tucks with no space 2 2
1/4″ tucks with 1/4″ space 2 3
1/2″ tucks with no space 4 4
1/2″ tucks with 1/2″ space 4 6
1″ tucks with no space 8 8

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Introducing the Super Easy Machine Needle Threader
We are so excited to now offer the Super Easy Machine Needle Threader for your Singer Featherweight. This will work on ALL household sewing machines, too, but we are partial to our Featherweights, aren’t we?! As an added bonus, it not only is helpful as a needle threader, but it easily inserts the needle, too!

Working with many needle threaders through the years, we were tickled to have a fellow Featherweight friend from Texas show us this particular style this summer when we were on our Featherweight Maintenance Workshop Tour. Thank you, David! This gadget is fantastic!

Let’s begin with the needle insertion:

To insert a needle in the needle clamp on the machine, first place the needle in the hole on the one end of the needle inserter, making sure the flat side of the needle shaft faces LEFT. This will help hold the needle steady for you as well!

Place the needle into the needle clamp shaft and raise the needle so that it’s as high as it will go. You can double check this if you want by applying pressure with your finger nail at the needle point.

With the needle threader still holding the needle in place, tighten the needle clamp as tight as you can.

Remove the needle inserter and double-check that the needle clamp is tightened all the way down.

This is important…slowly turn the handwheel towards you by hand to make sure the needle goes up and down smoothly and doesn’t hit the bobbin assembly. If the needle is hitting something as it goes down, then most likely the needle is not all the way up into the shaft and you will need to adjust it accordingly.

NOW, for the fun and exciting part! Let’s thread our Featherweight needle easily!

Hold the needle threader with the white hook and little blue arrow facing up.

Slip the thread strand horizontally into the “Y-groove” of the pusher.

Place the needle threader so that the needle is vertically into the shaft of the Y groove.

Holding the thread fairly loose, gently press the needle threader against the needle and slide the pusher down shaft of the needle until the inner wire catches of the eye of the needle.

Push the grip to insert thread into the eye.

Slowly remove pusher from the needle.

Insert top white hook in the thread loop and pull the thread all the way through the needle.

Now wasn’t that SUPER EASY!

** Note -Needle insertion may vary with machine model depending on the machine requirement for the flat side of the needle. Be sure to turn the tool as needed for correct needle insertion. (i.e. The flat side of the needle faces LEFT on a Singer Featherweight, but on newer machine models the flat side of the needle usually faces towards the back.)
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